So I went to Africa...

I have always found it hard to express exactly what I want to about an experience like this...and this one has been particularly tough because it wasn't so much about Africa but more about me...me in Africa and being where I needed to be for three months. But I try. And I have some pictures to help and these blog posts that have helped. In case you haven't been able to keep up on it all, here are some numbers to give you an overview:

3 # of countries visited (Tanzania, Kenya and Ethiopia), 4 # of visas I had to purchase, 8 # of friends I was able to visit, 1 # of times I rode a daladala, 4 # of friends with connections to the Dominican Republic, 40 (or so) # of times I washed out Elizabeth's small pan, 3 (or 4?) # of times I almost killed Paul, Elizabeth, the unborn child and myself because I left the oven on, 3 # of months I was gone, 0 # of times I called home, 3 # of times I shot a gun, 1 # number of mountains I climbed, 5 # of Israelis I climbed with, 7 # of days it took me to walk normal after climbing the mountain, about a million # of times I heard "JAMBO" when I was with the Texans, about a million and one # of times I heard "mzungu!" (white person), 2 # of African weddings I attended, 1 # of times I was offered as a guilt offering (by my sister), 9 # of books I read, 5 # of dance clubs visited...all in one night, 1 # of times I got sick, 3 # of hours I spent in the bathroom the one time I was sick, 7 # of months Elizabeth was pregnant when she was still running farther than me, 3 # of times I drove, 0 # of pedestrians/goats/bicyclists/chickens/other cars I hit, 5 # of new types of beer I tried, at least 5 # of times Paul, Elizabeth and I managed to find ourselves in a friendly/heated debate, 1 # of I (Heart) Hope Basketball stickers I saw, 90 # of minutes we were late to a wedding, 12 # hours of layover Sarah and Jaxon had in London on way to said wedding, 3 # of exams Sarah took early to get to wedding, 0 # of reasons we had for missing the wedding, 12 $ of US dollars it takes to get a fabulous pedicure, 3 # of rugby games I watched, a good 50 # of questions I had about the game, 4 # of times I had to go to Ethiopian Air to get my ticket, 20 # of times I was told "no worries" when inquiring as to whether there would be a shuttle to the airport, 0 # of shuttles that showed up, 17 # of cans of cooking spray I packed up while helping someone move, 500 # of library books I logged into a computer, 6 # of dogs I lived with at one time (okay, 4 were merely puppies), 200 # of cows I could fetch as a bride price (don't be fooled, that's actually a large compliment), 1 # of cows I milked, about 3 # of minutes I was allowed to milk the cow before I was told I was going too slow, at least 15 # of traffic jams I found myself in in Nairobi which is more times than I actually found myself in a car in Nairobi, and finally, even more than I had hoped # of giraffes I saw.

The One Where My Sister Offers Me as a Guilt Offering at an African Wedding

So there I was, minding my own business, in line for food at the reception of the wedding that my sister and Jaxon flew over to Africa for. We actually managed to miss the ENTIRE ceremony (that is another story...but not really a story, it was just a big 'welcome to Africa things are different here' moment). So we are in line and one of Jaxon's friends is talking with my sister. He is giving her a hard time about not being invited to Sarah's wedding (in a fun, joking manner) and Sarah's reply (direct quote), "I'm sorry...but hey, to make up for it I brought you my sister. Here she is!"

Come again?

Not sure how you respond to that one. I smile and shake his hand and then proceed to spend the rest of the wedding festivities trying to avoid awkward conversation with the guy. It was mostly awkward because it was super loud and I said, "huh?" or "sorry?" about every other sentence because I couldn't understand him. At one point it took me a good five minutes to realize that he was talking about "hawkers" in the city streets (guys selling used goods) not "hookers."

Oh well. I did politely ask my sister that the next time she decides to offer me to a guy that she runs it by me first. Or, at least asks what we could get in return. I was told once that I could easy fetch 200 cows as a bride price. I thought that seemed like a nice compliment.

In my sister's defense, she had just taken her exams early, flown to the other side of the world in the span of two days and missed the wedding she had flown over for. In case you words don't quite do justice to that disappointment, here is a picture. In the background is the wedding tent where an announcement is being made about how we are going to process over to the reception:

Communicating from the bush of Africa

Sorry for the lack of blogs and communication but here is a snapshot of what is necessary to make a phone call from where I have been of late.

I once (was on) a farm in Africa

I have been spending this past week a couple hours north of Nairobi with the Hovingh family. And let me tell you, Karen Blixen doesn’t have too much on these folks. What a joy it was to be welcomed into their home and see and hear of their adventures of developing their test farm, learning to home school and just figuring out how to live life in the bush of Africa. I had come out for a day in October with Paul & Elizabeth and just knew I needed to come back (refresher: Lisa’s younger sister, Lindsey, is one of my great friends from growing up (along with Heidi from Ethiopia) and Paul knows Jason from RVA…so we are all connected).

It has been a great week…great conversations with Lisa and Jason about life, life in Africa, life amidst transition…the chance to meet three young volunteers who are out here because they want to help and are taking some time off from school to learn more about life…watching kids explore nature and tap into their creativity that isn’t stifled by hours upon hours of sitting in front of a television…sorting through (not exaggerating) over 200 stuffed animals (VALUABLE LESSON: don’t send stuffed animals to Africa for orphans—everyone else is already doing that. Also, no need to send underwear that you no longer use) and mounds of clothes…learning even more about hospitality and the values and challenges of living in community…and, I even got to milk a cow.

Lessons from Ethiopia

I just spent a few days in Ethiopia with my friend Heidi, her husband and her one-year old. Heidi and I have been friends since Kindergarten and I was so thrilled to be able to see her life in Ethiopia. I was only able to be there for 3 full days, I learned (at least) 3 valuable lessons.

Lesson #1: if having people help you move, it is helpful to have packed before they arrive OR at least have boxes on hand.
The first day we went out of Addis to help some of their friends move. I have helped people move in developing countries before and realize that things don’t have to be super neatly packed as it all gets piled on the back of a truck. But, boxes are helpful. Upon arrival, Heidi and I were asked to pack up the kitchen and given one box, some plastic bags and a duffle bag. After a bit, I quickly learned lesson #1b: no need to have 17 cans of cooking spray and IF someone keeps send it to you, politely tell them you have plenty.

Lesson #2: don’t always believe guide books.
Heidi and I decided to venture down to “Africa’s largest open air market” and read (and were told) it was not advisable to go without a guide to navigate it all and to help translate. Heidi hadn’t ever been down there, so we thought about it but then decided to go on our own. A few mini-bus rides later and we were there. I haven’t gotten over my “not wanting to look like a tourist complex” so I didn’t take any pictures but there were many I wish I had taken. Like the one of alley lined with the mamas sitting behind their barrels of spices and, in the middle of the alley, two boys washing each others’ hair. Or of the moment when, minding my own business at the minibus stop, I was about knocked over by a pack of donkeys. Or in the tailor section of the market where the alley was lined with sewing machines and the young men sewing were showing off their skills to the young women who crowded around the machines. It was a great morning. And, we found everything we wanted to find and got a great price (I have always been a fan of bargaining) all without a guide.

Lesson #3: The Ark of the Covenant is in Addis Ababa.


Okay, maybe not. But, that is what we were told we were looking at when toured the oldest (120 years) church in Addis. It was a cool church, but I am not so convinced about the Ark.

As I am writing this, I realize that there are many other things I learned…and the ones that stand out the most are that cute kids always win the favor of others and it is C.H.E.A.P. to eat in Addis. So get on over there because I know some people who you can stay with who happen to have a cute kid and know of a lot of great restaurants.

Things that make you go hmm....

December 3, 2007
Things that make you go hmmm….

A week ago I was making plans to visit my friend Heidi in Ethiopia. Making plans in Africa (especially travel plans) somehow manages to be both challenging and easy at the same time. I had gone in to check on flights a few weeks prior and was assured that I didn’t need to purchase the ticket at that moment because “the prices never change.” Perfect. But last week when I went to purchase the ticket, wouldn’t you know it, the price had jumped big time. No worries, however, it just meant I had to fly a different route and all was fine. Since I was planning on flying in less than a week,
thought it would be wise to buy the ticket then. But was told that nope, it was better to just get my reservation and come back to buy the ticket another time. Why? Because “it is better that way.” Fine. So I went back the next day but the power was out and couldn’t print up the tickets. Okay. So I went back two days before I was to fly to get my ticket. She confirms my reservation and asks, “would you like to buy the ticket today?” (as if buying the ticket at a later date was even an option since the office was going to be closed the next day). No worries, I walked out with my ticket and then just had to get a ticket on a shuttle to the airport.

So, the day before I need a shuttle to the airport, I go to a hotel shuttle office. Unfortunately they don’t have shuttles at the time I need to go. But, no worries, I can just show up the next day because there is another airline that sends a shuttle at that time. They pass through the hotel and if I just slip the driver $10 I can hop on, no worries. I asked if there for sure was going to be a shuttle, “Yes, there is always a shuttle. Come to the office and we can help you get on.”

Monday, the day I am flying to Ethiopia. I arrive at the shuttle office to wait for the shuttle. Good news, I am told, there are actually two shuttles so if the first one doesn’t show up (“but they always come”) I can get on the next one ½ hour later. Well, wouldn’t you know it, the first one doesn’t show. “No worries,” I am told…again, “you can just get on the next one. And see those people in that car out there? They are trying to do the same thing and if the shuttle doesn’t come maybe you can ask them for a ride.” Okay. Half-hour later, still no shuttle. After a phone call, it is discovered that there are no shuttles today. Before I leave, however, I try to solidify whether I will be able to catch a shuttle back from the airport on Friday. Here is the conversation as my bag is being loaded into the back of a SUV that belongs to two Kenyan UN workers that I am now hitching a ride from because there was no shuttle that day:

Me: so…I will be able to get a shuttle back on Friday?

Woman: yes, my rafiki, there will be no problem.

Me: is there anything I can do to confirm this?

Woman: no, no need to confirm.

Me: and there will be a shuttle on Friday?

Woman: well, yes of course! There are shuttles everyday.

Hmmm…..